Local radio stations may warn of ‘Beaumont’ periods, when weather conditions are spot-on for outbreaks, and some blight resistant cultivars are also available. There are blight checkers available, which will tell you if your plants are in the early stages of the disease. Prepare for every eventuality by planting potato tubers deeply and earthing up if the worst comes to the worst, cut down infected growth (or haulms) and burn them. Blight spores need very specific weather conditions to germinate suffice to say humid, damp and warm weather over two consecutive 24-hour periods is most likely to trigger off the disease. You’re really in the hands of mother nature on this one. Finding a blight infected potato tuber isn’t much fun either – it’s a slimy wet mush! Potatoes suffer more than tomatoes, the entire top of the plant can collapse. Both crops show brown lesions on leaf tips and fruits, accompanied by white, fluffy fungus. You’ve probably already heard of blight – it’s the disease that caused the Irish potato famine, but what you might not know is that it affects tomatoes (grown outdoors) as well. Acid and waterlogged soils are more likely to play host to this soil-borne nasty and try not to spread it by cleaning boots and equipment. There are some resistant varieties available. You can still grow but you'll need raised beds. The key is prevention – practice crop rotation, keep weeds down (some are a host for the disease) and be careful where you get your plants from.Ĭareful planning and gardening should keep this disease away. The bacteria can survive in the soil for up to 20 years and can be spread on tools, boots, compost – anything which comes into contact with the soil. Unfortunately, there’s not much you can do. Up top, foliage is pale and washed out and plants readily wilt – they may even die. Soil-borne Clubroot affects root crops along with brassicas and the roots of infected plants are grossly swollen and distorted. Not something you want to find in your garden – ever. Make sure you don’t compost diseased plant material – burn it! Clubroot - Bacteria It affects many garden plants – both vegetable and ornamental - with brussels sprouts, cucumbers, courgettes, strawberries and other soft fruits particularly at risk. If any leaves begin to show symptoms of the disease, get rid of them straightaway. The fungal spores enjoy humid and stagnant air, so try and avoid these conditions by watering the soil and not the leaves. Plants suffering from the disease will show a powdery white fungal growth on the upper leaf surfaces. Powdery version also affects leaves but will also affect fruits which split and crack. There are plenty of resistant vegetable cultivars around so go for these if possible. Get infected leaves off quickly and burn them and water the soil, not the plants.Ĭertain strains affect specific plants (lettuce, onion, spinach and sprouts) and the disease will also target ornamentals and other vegetables. Outside, keep the air circulating between plants with generous spacing and weed control. If growing under glass, make sure the greenhouse is well ventilated and don’t water from above. Look out for furry grey growth which appears on the upper surfaces of leaves. Initial symptoms similar to powdery mildew, but this is more prevalent in dry conditions – downy likes the wet. Downy Mildew - Fungusĭevelops in damp conditions and thrives on young plants, causing leaves to die. So who exactly is the vegetable gardener up against, disease-wise? Here are some examples of the most common foes you’ll meet, but don’t go thinking this is a definitive list – far from it! But for now, let’s get to know the enemy. Strong, healthy plants are far less likely to succumb than weak, over-fed and sappy specimens practicing crop rotation will help prevent soil-borne problems from taking a foothold and there are many disease resistant varieties of vegetables on the market. No, plant diseases are much more subtle and their stealth-like approach means it can often be too late, or at best difficult, to repel them once they take hold.īut it’s not all bad news, you’ll be pleased to hear! Although the garden disease line-up sounds like a rogue’s gallery – step forward bacteria, viruses and fungi – with a bit of preventative care and general good husbandry, keeping on top of common diseases is relatively simple. We’ll concentrate on the diseases first, not least because they’re actually harder to diagnose than the pests which ravage your plants and are easily visible rampaging around.
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